The Thousand Islands are the most enduring things on the earth, washed by ever-new currents of water, passing in its eternal cycle from the heavens to the sea and back again. Our islands, some eighteen hundred of them are formed of granite, the oldest material on the face of the planet. Layers of newer rock and soil remain on a few of them, but typically erosion has exposed the summits of ancient mountains, interposed with pockets of thin soil that surprisingly support rich growth of pines and other native flora.

Ian Coristine photograph

The Thousand Islands are part of granite formation that extends from the Adirondack Mountains of New York State northwest through the lake districts of Ontario, where similar terrain is evident, to Georgian Bay in Lake Huron, where almost identical islands appear. Where it crosses the St. Lawrence River, the narrow link of exposed granite is known as the Frontenac Arch. A current movement proposes connection via the Frontenac Arch of two major wilderness areas, the Algonquin and Adirondack Parks of Ontario and New York. The similar ecology of the entire region would be recognized and conserved.

Map courtesyof the Algonquin to Adirondack Conservation Association

In line with the objective of the Algonquin to Adirondack Conservation Association, UNESCO designated the Frontenac Arch Biosphere Reserve, one of four hundred worldwide. The Biosphere Network provides information about conservation goals in its information center near Ivy Lea and on its website.

The international boundary line could not be drawn down the center of the river, due to large islands. Canada has the larger number of islands, about two thirds. The largest island, Wolfe Island, is Canadian, as is nearby Howe Island, fourth largest. Grindstone and Wellesely Island, second and third in size, are in the United States.

Fifty miles of the St. Lawrence River. Map courtesy Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

The terrain of the westernmost islands differs from those farther down the river, since from Simcoe to Hickory the islands retain the fairly flat surface seen elsewhere on the lake plain, whereas from Grindstone to Brockville the newer levels of sedementary rock have disappeared, exposing the more irregular, underlying granite. The Bateau Channel, between Howe Island and the Canadian mainland, follows the line of demarcation, with the City of Kingston lying on the eastern edge of the Frontenac Arch. It is known as "the Limestone City," however, since so many of its historic buildings were built of the sedimentary rock from the lake plain.

The surface of Wellesley Island is partially covered with more level sandstone, another sedimentary rock, whereas the more northern portion is more rugged because of its exposed granite. The division between the two terrains is the island's interior Lake of the Isles. The changing character of stone is evident where exposed by cuts made for Interstate 81 as it crosses the island.

Granite and water, Paul Malo photograph.

The historic buildings on Heart Island were constructed of stones from different quarries. Boldt Castle itself employed granite form Oak Island in Chippewa Bay, whereas the Alster Tower appears to be constructed of sandstone, probably from nearby Wellesley Island. Don Ross has written most fully on the geological formation and the natural ecology of the Thousand Islands. Parks Canada has provided some material online.

The islands vary not merely in size and geology, but in the way they are irregularly dispersed, frequently appearing in groups. A British hydrographer who surveyed the river in 1816 recognized and named eight clusters. The Admiralty Group, for instance, contains sixty-four islands near Gananoque. The "Admiralty" term reflects names given islands within the group, memorializing Lords of the Admiralty. Similarly, the named islands of the Navy Group after officers in the Royal Navy, and those of the Lake Fleet after ships of the Royal Navy. The latter are the most colorful, such as "Deathdealer" and "Bloodletter."

Granite, water, and Great Black Gulls (Larus marinus). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

Our relatively protected island terrain is habitat to abundant wildlife. The microclimate, tempered by water, supports a distinctive ecology. Nature centers and parks provide programs about our natural environment. Don Ross has written extensively about these matters.

An island Mink (Mustela vison). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art.

Deer are so abundant on many islands as to be a nuisance, while the expanding population has a survival problem.

Minna Anthony Common Nature Center. Randy Caccia photograph.

The sound of the Loon evokes many memories for those who have lived on islands, hearing the odd cry during quiet nights.

Loon (Common, Gavia immer). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

The Canada Goose is a familiar neighbor.

Canada Goose (Branta canadensis). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

The Great Blue Heron has made a remarkable comeback in recent decades. Increased clarity of the water (thanks to the Zebra Mussels, Dreissena polymorpha) has provided better fishing for herons.

Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias), Linda Russ photograph.

Great Blue Heron. John Schuck photograph.

In clarifying the water, however, Zebra Mussels consume micro organisms, food for smaller fish. which in turn reduces prey for larger fish.

Zebra Mussels and Catfish ("Bullhead"), Ivy Lea. Jean Langlois Photograph.

Northern Pike (Esox lucius). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

Monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus) on Turk's Cap Lily (Lilium superbum). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

We are located on the Atlantic Flyway, a major route for seasonal bird migration.

Canada Goose. Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

Goose eggs. Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

Osprey (Pandion haliaetus). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

White-tailed Deer does (Odocoileus virginianus), Hill Island. J. Rawls photograph.

White-tail deer buck, photograph courtesy Ontario Parks.

"Whitey," Black Squirrel (a melanistic phase of the Eastern Gery Squirrel, Sciurus carolinensis), Gina Bregani photograph.

Black-capped chickadee (Poecile atricapilla).Patty Mondore photograph.

Ruffed Grouse (Bonasa umbellus). Randy Caccia photograph.

Bald Eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) in their only Thousand Islands nest, 2004. Doug Rawlinson, photographer.

"Hoover," the Eastern Chipmunk (Tamias striatus), Patty Mondore photograph.

Racoon (Procyon lotor). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art

For decades many residents report seeing "wolves" on islands such as Wellesley, or on winter ice between islands. The elusive animals, considered to be more than ordinary Coyotes, rarely have been photographed here. Ken Watson who took picture below, says, "It's the only time I've seen this 'wolf' in our area and was just lucky to have a
camera at hand."

Coyote-wolf. Ken Watson photograph.

Are Gray Wolves, an endangered species gradually returning to Canada, migrating southward to our area? Randy Caccia, naturalist at the Minna Anthony Common Nature Center on Wellesley Island, ventures that "the 'wolves'  that people are seeing are coyotes that have in their ancestry been bred with wolves.  They have taken on some of the characteristics of the wolves that once lived in the area."  Some think that when Wolves disappeared, as as Coyotes "started to fill in the niche of the top predator, they started to grow larger."

Canadian Porcupine (Erethizon dorsatum), Randy Caccia photograph.

Gray Tree Frog (Hyla versicolor) going through a metamorphic color change. Randy Caccia photograph.

Dragonfly (Twelve Spotted Skimmer, Libellula pulchella).  Randy Caccia photograph.

The St. Lawrence Seaway has altered the ecology of the river. Zebra Mussels, probably introduced from disharge of ocean-going ships' bilge water, have clarified the water, making fish more vulnerable to predatory birds. The Double-Breasted Cormorant has invaded and multiplied rapidly, causing serious concern of fishermen, as well as state and national governments.

Double-crested Cormorants (Phalacrocorax auritus, black) and gulls (white). Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photoart

Double-crested Cormorant. Photograph copyright Dan Sudia.

Our granite islands are often rough-and-tumble. Rugged shores, softened by native growth, provide an ever varied scenic landscape for passing boaters.

Wood Island. John Schuck photograph.

Conservationists observe, "These islands lie in a biological transition zone, between the deciduous and Great Lakes Region forests. Due to the moderating effect of the lake and river, the climate is such that many species reach their northern limit in the Thousand Islands Region. Many islands ... show strong microclimatic effects due to their rugged topography. Southwest slopes are exposed to the sun and have predominant south west winds , and therefore have a hot dry climate typical of much further south. Protected north-east slopes are cool, moist and shady. The vegetation is of a mixed forest type with eastern white and red pines, eastern hemlock and yellow birch. Broad-leaved species such as sugar maple, red maple, red oak and basswood are also found."

Ontario Conservation Data Centre. 1990. Managed Area Basic Record: St. Lawrence Islands National Park.

Kring Point State Park. John Schuck photograph

The Pitch Pine is noteable here, growing to an ancient age although staying small in stature. The moderating effect of the water allows the species to grow here near its nothernmost limit

Old Pitch Pine. Courtesy Friends of Charleston Lake. Photographer unidentified.

Younger Pitch Pine, Spong Island. Ian Coristine / 1000 Islands Photo Art.

Although the second Pitch Pine appears younger, the island's owner reports that the tree has remained much the same as reported some seventy years ago.

Island terrain is a natural rock garden. Stone flowers improbably bloom in crevices; colorful lichens encrust rock surfaces.

Columbine and Lichen (Aquilegia canadensis and Lichen mosaic). Paul Malo photograph.

Two of our plants rare for this latitude are the Rue Anemone (Anemonella thalictroide) and Winged Sumac (Rhus copallinum).

Water Lily (Nymphaea odorata). Patty Mondore photograph.

Great Blue Heron. Brigitte photograph.

[More to follow].

Place: Communities, History, Parks & Preserve